CDMX is one of those culinary capitals of the world that will surprise you. The second I arrived, I felt like I was in a mixture of Madrid, NYC, and Latinoamerica. It has a cosmopolitan vibe, café culture, plenty of rooftop terraces, history, and all of the mescal and tacos you’ll ever need.

Right off the bat let me say, MAKE RESERVATIONS TO QUINTONIL AND PUJOL EARLY. LIKE, NOW. Unfortunately I went during Revolution Day weekend, so of all 4 days I was there the restaurants were closed for 3, and I had no chance of getting in. Having a local friend didn’t help the situation, so I guess I need to go back?

 

Where to Eat + Drink Other Than Quintonil and Pujol

I’m sobbing into my keyboard as I type this because I’m still bitter I didn’t eat at 2 of the best restaurants in the world while I was there. CDMX still has plenty of amazing food outside of these gems:

• Amaya. Local spot near my hotel and near my friend’s flat. I actually took a picture of the menu so I remember what I got! Softshell crab with avocado, Gnocchi, and Wagyu brisket with Jerusalem artichoke puree. Quirky décor.
• La Soldadera. Adorable rooftop terrace overlooking a Revolution monument. Off of Reforma, and so nice I went here twice.
• Rosetta. First place I ate in CDMX! Boutique and feminine setting with a lot of florals and mirrors. Looks French, with Mexican influenced Italian food. I really only remember eating tender beef tongue here, and unidentified fish. I asked my friend to order everything because I was on little sleep and she knew best. On a list as one of the best restaurants in CDMX.
• Casa Franca. A dark, cozy jazz bar in Roma with plush chairs, dangly lamps, and creative gin/whiskey cocktails.
• Hotel Casa Awolly. Great cocktail list, avant garde décor and fixtures, and multiple levels of rooms with the most curious details. Has a loud, clubby vibe upstairs with a DJ, and the clientele is young professional bougie. Nearly spilled my drink on some guy’s Gucci loafers, definitely dodged a bullet.
• El Califa. Yes, it’s a chain. No, I don’t care. Freaking legit tacos. For some reason they let tacos lay flat here, and provide all the fixins on the side. My table was crammed full of toppings, spices, guac, and that special salsa they keep in the back for locals with psycho tastebuds, like my friend. That stuff, you have to ask the waiter for separately.
• Hotel Condesa DF. Watched the sunset here over rooftop cocktails. Condesa is a very art deco area of the city, and strolling around Amsterdam was one of the more relaxing strolls I’ve taken before indulging in cocktails. They also serve good sushi and have heaters/blankets (the city is sweltering during the day and chilly at night).
• Dulce Patria. The place where I got my mole fix, as we ate 2 different types. I also had Guanabana agua fresca. Can’t go wrong with either. Desserts were presented on a plate with a brilliant rooster alebrije, and plating for each dish was as artful as it was tasty. Also on a list for best restaurants in CDMX.
• Limantour. Has a cute outdoor patio and several craft cocktails to choose from. I tried one with gin and one with mescal, and tried not to get too angry at the unionized carnival music crank handle guy playing obnoxious sounds near my table. As I mentioned in an instagram story, these guys don’t get any tips from those passing by, but they’re unionized and therefore still exist. Still worth coming here as this place is also on a few top cocktail bar lists.
• Churreria the Moro. Churros. Several types of dipping chocolate. Enough said.
• Jules Basement. A speakeasy that wasn’t open when I tried to go, so someone go and tell me if it lives up to the hype!

 

When You Need a History Lesson

My friend took me to Centro Historico and all I can say is OMG SO MANY PEOPLE. Not sure my photos do justice of how packed it was.

I’m a sucker for random details, and there is no shortage of obscure knowledge. The city is sinking, so the centuries old facades and buildings in general are really janky and misaligned. Doorways, windows, structural foundation… everything is a photographer’s dream and insurer’s nightmare.

CDMX was founded on top of the old Aztec city of Tenochtitlan and there are plenty of ruins and people dressed up like Aztecs to remind you of this. I was happy I retained some knowledge of Aztecs from 9th grade history, but never would have learned that people go to get this kind of tantric, smoky, herbal blessing for good luck. Even my friend said her grandmother used to take her to get this done, and I was surprised the locals, not the tourists, were partaking in this ritual.

 

Feeling Creative, Artsy, or Outdoorsy

• Visit La Ciudadela. This was open on the Monday Revolution Day holiday, and the store I went to accepted credit cards. Keep in mind you cannot bargain shop unless you use cash. I bought about 50000 alebrijes for Christmas presents and my family loved them. The beaded calaveras and alebrijes are what you should focus on buying since the detail is incredible. They’re also the most expensive. The shop I bought from did a great job wrapping every item for me to bring home in luggage.
• Frida Kahlo Museum. This was a CF but worth it. I didn’t buy my tickets online first (mistake 1),
• Diego Rivera Murals. Didn’t get to see these because frankly I was overwhelmed in the centro historico, but they look incredible and I will do this once I have official confirmation for Pujol and Quintonil and book my flight back.
• Chapultepec Park. A big site I didn’t get to because I spent a lot of my day working remotely. Next time.
• Teotihuacan. Aztec ruins about 45 minutes outside the city. Also on my itinerary for next time!

 

Where to Stay

I did something a little different than my normal sleep crappy/eat well plan and splurged for a room at Le Meridien on Reforma. It was close enough to everything I wanted and most importantly near my friend in the city. I could walk pretty much everywhere! I would also recommend Polanco since I spent a majority of my time there. I hear the W is amazing.

 

Can’t wait to go back and check everything else off of my list! Curious to hear if there are other restaurants other than Pujol and Quintonil that you loved below.

 

Cheers,

Shaye